Using the paddle shifter to activate the launch control, the transbrake locks the vehicle’s output shaft and allows for a brake-free launch. A slight variation is required with the dearly departed Challenger SRT Demon, which has a transbrake feature. It’s a similar process for Dodge Hellcat vehicles, with instructional guidance also displayed on the vehicle information center.
#LAUNCHCONTROL MUSTANG DRIVER#
In a BMW M car, the engine will need to be warmed up, dynamic stability control turned off, and the automatic transmission set to sequential mode with the vehicle in first gear. Or at least that’s how the sequence starts. In this case, maximum acceleration from a standing start.Īctivation can be as simple as pressing a button. Not a drive mode, per se, launch control is specially calibrated tuning meant to alter a vehicle’s response and performance for a given driving situation. How does launch control incorporate these launch modes? As a sort of add-on. They’re often given names like Race, Drift, or other racetrack-inspired monikers like Nürburgring. You’ll have more fun behind the wheel in Sport mode, but you’ll also spend more time refueling.Īnd then, you have specialized modes in which high-performance calibrations for specific drive scenarios come into play. Sport mode will increase throttle response and stiffen the suspension.
Each mode is calibrated to alter gearing, throttle response, suspension settings, steering feel, and traction control.įor example, Eco will change the gear ratios and powerband to optimize fuel economy but provide a less-than-exciting driving experience. With the push of a button, a driver can adjust how a vehicle handles based on changing road conditions or preferences.
Typically available as Eco, Comfort, and Sport, other modes can include Smart, Sport+, and Individual. 1000 miles for the engine.Many new cars, trucks, and SUVs have selectable drive modes. So wait at least 500 miles for the sake of your driveline's break-in period before trying out the launch control. He told me that the people who just go balls out hard on the clutch right off the bat run more of a risk of grenading the thing, and their rear-end gives off more of a whine. The finance guy was telling me while we were going over my paperwork that I'd want to take it easy on the transmission for at least 500 miles to break in the clutch and the rear end, etc. Felt that'd give it an even piston wear in there, and taking off once or twice during my 4-5 mile commute to work gunning it up to 5-5.5k RPM leaving the light would help seat and seal those O-rings everyone kept bringing up. Easier to do in a manual, you just control what gear you stay in. Aside from that I'd cruise around at 2.5k RPM, then let it sit around 3k for a bit, then 3.5 or 4k. I refused to let it touch redline but I did regularly take it up to 5k to 5.5k RPM at least once or twice during my daily commute to work. The argument with the people that say drive it like you stole it from day one is that it will help seat your O-rings better during the break-in and you won't end up with such an oil eating pig of a car, you'll be more efficient with your horsepower rating, etc. I read many different things from people dumping the clutch and redlining it right as they left the dealership lot to people saying to go easy but just vary things. The most common thing I read was just don't baby the hell out of it. When I took mine home I wanted to know all about breaking in the engine and who did what with theirs and why.
#LAUNCHCONTROL MUSTANG MANUAL#
The manual basically just says for the first 1000 miles vary your speed and RPMs don't just cruise around at one RPM the whole time. You'll hear all kinds of different things when it comes to breaking it in lol.
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